Happy New Year's Eve!

We're off to the fireworks in London! God bless all of you in 2012!

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Mauthausen Concentration Camp

    Kalifa and I spent a couple days wandering around the Old City of Linz. It's really gorgeous! The main street is filled with stores and has both ends in a Christmas market. And if you go just a few steps into a side street, it's very quiet and empty. The interesting thing about Austria is that pedestrians are very quiet. It's kind of strange to walk past hundreds of people and hardly hear any thing.

   Then on Thursday, we got up early and rode the bus to a tiny town called Mauthausen about 45 minutes away from Linz. It's pretty cute, but that wasn't why we went there. We went for the Mauthausen-Gusen Concentration Camp, a Nazi camp from World War II. It started as a single camp, but soon grew to be one of the largest labor-camp complexes. The prisoners were used as slave labor right outside the camp at the stone quarry and the plane-parts factory.

   It was so sad. I've never been to a concentration camp before. Most of the barracks have been torn down, except the ones lining the roll call area. Although we saw a few people at the beginning, we were soon the only people in the whole place. It felt so ominous and dead. It was difficult to match up the deadness to the chaos that had been. Thousands of people scrambling through the camp, barracks filled with gaunt men and the roll call area filled with saluting skeletons.

   We found a small entry way to the gas chambers and cremation chambers, located under the prison building. We somberly went through the dank rooms, stepped through the thick doors hanging open into sealed chambers, gazed at a few pictures of victims, walked around a cremation oven and found an empty body table. I honestly felt a little creeped out and very, very sad.

   After we came out of the gas chambers, it was raining. We made our way past dozens of silent statues standing where the guards barracks used to be. Behind a huge sculpture of barbed wire, we saw a huge gully, the old stone quarry. There were a few, deep, green ponds and the long, infamous Stairs of Death on the other side. We squeezed past a gate ( there was a sign saying we could proceed at our own risk in winter) and continued down a cobblestone road along the cliff. Kalifa stayed at the top, and I slowly walked down the steps and around the bottom of the gully. I couldn't believe everything that had happened. I slowly climbed the 189 steps, imagining the poor people that had to rush up the stairs with 100 kilos of stone on their backs.

   Mauthausen was very sad, but extremely interesting. And since it's not one of the most famous concentration camps, it's easy to avoid large crowds. If you ever find yourself in that part of Austria, I recommend it.

Spain to its fallen sons in Mauthausen
2 February, 1978

Old bathroom

Prison cells

Gas chamber

Stone quarry

Stairs of Death

Parachute Wall. The Nazi guards forced prisoners to jump off to their deaths

Wait... What?

   On Thursday, I suddenly looked around and realized what was going on. I was walking down a little mountain road. In Austria. With cold Alpine cold nipping at my ears. I had just spent the day in a place - although one of the saddest, most somber places I have ever been to - that has a lot of history. We had gotten out to this small, little town from another relatively obscure town. Again, all in Austria.
  It was one of those times where I shake myself and wonder, how did I get here? This isn't usually where I am. I feel so blessed to have these wonderful opportunities! Thanks to everyone at home who has been supporting and encouraging me!

Christmas Lights

The Old City of Linz is amazing! It has pretty much convinced both Kalifa and I that we don't want to live in America =)

Austria!!

   We're here, safe and sound! Although we were both nervous about the cold, it's actually quite manageable. Unfortunately, that means no snow. Wie traurig! How sad! But maybe it will snow later on in the week.
   When my mother went to Bogenhofen (the Austrian ACA program), she had a friend named Maria. Now, years later, Kalifa and I get to stay with Maria in Austria! She has two sweet daughters at home, Jennifer and Janet, and another married daughter, Jessica.
   On our first day here, we went to church and Sabbath School. The lady we're staying with, Maria, has a sister and nephew - Daniella and Benjamin - who speak English well, so they kindly translated the church service for us. I tried really hard to pick out any words I could, and was able to figure out a few things. For example, kraft means "power" and kraftlos means "powerless".
   That afternoon, all the cousins came over to our host family's house. We had so much fun playing cards! Even though Kalifa and I couldn't understand all the things that happened, and we lost quite badly.
   Afterwards, Kalifa and I went to a Christmas market with Daniella, Benjamin and Marcus, another of Daniella's sons. It was so cool! The air was brisk and cool, but not freezing. Everywhere, beautiful, tall people were speaking German. And of course, delicious smells filled the air. We got a pastry called bauernkrapfen; it's kind of like a doughnut (but not as sweet or rich) with fruit preserves in the middle. It was so good! Although my raspberry filling was too sweet to eat and I smeared some on my llama-hair mittens. (Don't worry, it washed out!)
   I seem to blog about local pastries a lot...
   The amazing thing about the Christkindlmarkt was that it had such a casual, normal air to it. It doesn't have the sense of foreign excitement that they have in America. It feels like an accepted, normal part of the city.
   Today, we drove to a beautiful view point above the city. There's a huge, beautiful church and an adorable Christmas attraction. We went into an artificial cave and boarded a small train that went in circles. The wall niches were adorned with dwarves pranking each other and performing everyday dwarfish tasks. Then we went downstairs to a miniature city, complete with market stalls and elaborate fairy-tale scenes. Austria seems to love the Brothers Grimm! We even learned a few more fairy tales we had never heard before.
   Only one bad thing, and it's driving me crazy; I forgot my camera in Spain! I couldn't believe it. Fortunately, one of my friends still in Spain is going to mail it to me. Please, please, God, let it get here soon!
     

Jennifer, Jessica, her husband Walter, me, Kalifa, and Janet

Thanks to Kalifa for the use of her camera!

And I'm Off!

I've been thinking about this Christmas vacation for a year and a half. And it starts today. Right now! Oh my goodness! I get to spend Christmas in Austria!
   It's kind of stressful though, because the details for the last week and a half still aren't set. Okay, so we haven't even bought our plane ticket yet. It'll work out! I hope.

Adios, amigos!

Note: If you ever do ACA... bring a backpack. It's amazing how wonderful it is!

Mail!!!

  Packages from home; there's nothing quite as exciting. From seeing familiar handwriting, to tearing through the layers and layers of tape, to finally digging out the last note; it's perfectly packaged happiness.
   The day before we left for Italy, I got a notice that a box had come for me and was in the Sagunto post office. I cannot describe how EXCITED I was! As soon as I got out of Bible class, I ran to my room, grabbed my backpack, and got a bike from the guy's dorm. I bike to the Correos office fairly quickly and stood in line, jittery with excitement. When the lady produced the box from the back and put it on the counter, I wanted to tear it open right there. I paid the €28 from customs (um, ouch) squeezed the bulky, heavy box in my backpack and remounted my bike.
    Let me tell you, it wasn't easy getting back. Not only did I have a 20+ pound box pulling me backwards, but I was riding uphill. Long, long hills.
   But I made it back; sweaty, shaky, and so happy. I must say, I have the best family ever. Not only did they send me a package, but my brother and sister got up at 5 am just to watch me open it. I was too happy with them to pay attention to their whines about the hour.
   You guys. Seriously. Best.Package.Ever. It took me at least 20 minutes to go through all the notes and jokes, clothes, candy, water bottle, click erasers, and - glory be! - real American peanut butter and applesauce! Words can't describe. And getting face wash and perfume... It's simple, but town and stores are so far away here. My brother also sent me a nerf gun, fake moustaches, and reindeer antlers. They demanded a picture, so for that atrocity, see below.
   One day, I suddenly realized with a pang of homesickness that the next day was Thanksgiving. I couldn't help thinking about Thanksgivings past with all my family and good food, in a house with actual heating. I sighed and stuffed the thought away. Imagine my surprise when literally two minutes later, the office called me to tell me I had some mail. I flew down the stairs and got a card from my wonderful grandparents! So, so sweet! That definitely made my day.
   I'll write more about Thanksgiving later, but I want to add one more thing. A couple weeks before, someone came into the cafeteria and told me there was a package for me in the office. I immediately left my uneaten lunch and galloped downstairs. I spotted my mother's handwriting, but before I could run away with the package safely in my clutches, one of the teachers checked and noticed that it was addressed to Juan Antonio-Lopez, the director of ESDE-S. When I asked my mom, she just mysteriously said that it didn't concern me. I couldn't imagine what was going on, but I decided to drop it. But then, at Thanksgiving dinner, our teachers stood up and announced that they had an amazing surprise for us; surprise packages from our families! I couldn't help laughing when they handed me the same package.
   My mom was amazing! She sent me fall decorations and a miniature Christmas tree with ornaments! But imagine my surprise when I opened a small box and saw, in all its glory, a pristine jar of homemade applesauce! I was so excited; as soon as I saw it, I squealed so loud that everyone near me turned around. And after my family had said it was impossible to send a glass jar of applesauce!
   To everyone in Walla Walla, Walla Walla University is sending out packages to student missionaries. Unfortunately, the boxes for many of them are still empty. I know they would be so happy to get anything! WWU is even paying for the shipping. If anyone could just go to Walmart and get some general, American things and then take it to the chaplain's office on College Ave, you'd help make a student missionary's Christmas wonderful.

I think it's best we never talk about this again.

Aww, my sweet, wonderful friends sent me a letter in the package!

How my desk looked after unpacking my package.

Thanksgiving card!

Package full of decorations.

It's a Thanksgiving miracle! Homemade applesauce!!!

L'amore di Juliet in Verona, Italy

   Stephanie's uncle is the army chaplain, so on Friday morning, we got to go to the military base with her aunt. It was so weird! We were right in the middle of Italy, but all of a sudden, everything switched to American. It was so strange to hear people all around us speaking American English. There was even a shopping center that was exactly like Walmart! We were so excited to be in a familiar store, with familiar products and dollar prices! Unfortunately, even though I found all my favorite shampoos and lotions, I couldn't bring anything back in my carry-on. After running around in circles, we went to the food court and got Taco Bell! I rarely eat Taco Bell; I probably had it twice last year. But it sure tasted good!
   We next drove a couple hours to Verona. In Verona, there is an old house that is said to be the house of Juliet - Shakespeare's Juliet! If you've seen Letters to Juliet... That's where we were! We went on the balcony, rubbed the statue of Juliet for good luck and wrote messages on the Juliet wall.
   The Juliet house was really interesting. We saw paintings of the scenes of the play, paintings and furniture of the time period, old tile, beautiful costumes & props made for various movies and a drunk security guard.
   Afterwards, we wandered through Verona. We passed under this huge arch about 100 feet in the air, from which a giant whale bone hung. According to legend, when a saintly, pure person walks under it one day, the bone will fall. I craned my neck to look up at it as I passed under. It didn't fall. I guess girls who steal their brother's Jolly Ranchers at the parade don't deserve to have whale bones fall from the sky.
   We also went to this amazing little chocolateria!  It was full of Christmas decorations, dolls, and nutcrackers. But it was tiny and there were so many people. Even when we snagged one of the tiny tables, I had to be careful not to jab someone with my elbow when I reached for my mug. But that steaming mug full of thick chocolate and rich cream? Best thing ever.
   Verona is gorgeous! It's a wonderful mix of modern clothing store streets, street markets, bakeries, stylish people, and even a Roman colosseum! We walked back through the brisk air as church bells tolled overhead. All of Italy has convinced me that one day, I will definitely live close to church bells.

We got awesome security passes to the base!

Look at all the Victoria's Secret!

I was inexplicably happy for my crunchwrap.

I love the guy's expression in the back. When we finished with the picture, they commented that
they don't usually see their Taco Bell being used as a tourist photo-op.

Juliet's balcony

People put locks on the gate, to symbolize locking their love for eternity.

The only thing more awkward than this was the group of Scandinavian (?) tourists who
were watching and giggling nervously. It's good luck, guys! Now maybe I'll get an A in Conversation!

Messages

Writing in the Juliet book inside. There are multiple places to write notes and letters.

On her balcony!

Chocolateria! Amazing hot chocolate, wonderful decorations, tiny as can be.

Roasted chestnuts! The texture reminds me of corn.

Writing on the Juliet wall

Foto Contest!

   Every year, ACA has a photo contest for all the students abroad. They use the pictures in their handbooks, websites, and other such things. This week, Odette Ferreira, the director of ACA, came to Sagunto. And, among all the ACA students in the many, beautiful countries... I got 5th place! AND $200! ¡Que bueno! I'm really more excited about the money, I think. That just paid for my plane ticket to Austria!

Christmas Plans! Part #1

Kalifa and I just bought our tickets. With a $15 discount! Whaaaat!!
   Where are we going, you ask? Well, maybe this will give you an idea.

Well, it looks like a pretty city. And is that snow I see?

Red, white, red again. And there was an eagle.

Please. Do NOT tell me this needs a caption.

Marionette shows...

Apple strudel... Mm-hmm...

Yup, that's definitely snow. And mountains. Tall mountains. With snow.

Child Mozart.

We will probably also travel a little father and stop by a certain
 castle that inspired Disney.

Images from: city in winter, apple strudel, flag, Maria, marionettes, alpine village, Mozart, castle

Venizia

   My first true trip outside of Spain... And it was maravillosa!

   We set out from school on Wednesday afternoon. I must say, I was worried we would miss our plane. We had 3 and a half hours to get there, but the Valencia airport is a long way when you have to hike and hop between trains. But we were lucky. We caught each train and metro, sometimes with only seconds to spare.

   When we got to Milan, the first thing we noticed was how freezing it was. Gone was the 20° weather (about 70° Fahrenheit) of Spain; instead, we were greeted with cold, damp, 4° air (39°). But at least it finally felt like Christmas! We played cards in a coffee shop, shivering every time the sliding doors next to us opened. It was so wonderful when Stephanie's aunt and uncle picked us up and we climbed into their warm car.

   It felt like such a dream when we finally arrived at their house a couple hours later. We walked in and were immediately enveloped in warm, homey smells and the sight of a real home. Couches, a TV, a regular sized bathroom and heavenly soft, warm beds.

   AND the next morning, we had Actual American Food! Biscuits with jam, cereal, and Morning Star sausage links. It was amazing, even though we ate it in the car so we wouldn't miss the train to Venice.

   We had fun in the train. Italian countryside is breathtaking, and we could see the Alps peaking through the far-off mist.  We were even responsible students and practiced Spanish verb conjugations. We recited varations of, "I eat, you eat, he/she eats, we eat, you guys eat, they eat" over and over again.

   In the train station, I encountered my first pay toilet so far in Europe. It was only €.80, but when your fingers are numb and you're REALLY not in the mood to wait, it's hard to dig through your wallet for those little coins.

   We exited the train station and but then stopped on the steps. Immediately in front of us was the Grand Canal. Venice. We were in Venice!

   We had so much fun! I bought a beautiful Venetian glass watch, we examined beautiful leather purses, took pictures, admired the gondolas but politely shook our heads when the gondoliers tried to reel us in, listened to the Italian swirling around us, gaped at hundreds of beautiful (but pricey) masks and discussed the people walking by. I'm afraid it's so easy to get in the habit of talking about people within earshot. We've just gotten so used to people not being to understand us; but so many people speak other languages. Not to mention it's rude, whether they understand us or not.

   Although Venice has many wonderful little shops, my favorite were the parchment stores. They were small, warm little shops, with shelves and shelves of beautiful, leather bound journals. Many of them also had leather bookmarks, beautiful maps on parchment, wax seals and fountain and quill pens. Absolutely beautiful! I just wanted to buy a leather journal, sit down and write something worthy.

  The first parchment store we went in, we were exclaiming over the beautiful books, when I wandered back to the counter. The proprietor - a small, older Italian man - was talking with another little Italian man as he cut some paper for another journal. He saw me, smiled and said, "Fa freddo!"

   I smiled really big. I understood what he said! I nodded. "Si, mucho. Um... San Marco?" I named the main plaza.

   "Oh, si, si." He pulled out a little map with his store location on it. When I pointed to the X and asked, "Estamos aquí?", he nodded and said, "Ahhh, española, no?"

   I nodded my head. But wait a minute; he didn't ask if I spoke Spanish. He asked if I was Spanish! Me! He thought I was Spanish! I was so excited. Whenever we travel, I always try to fit in and not stick out as American. And then he goes and thinks I'm actually a European! ¡Que guay!

   With my Spanish and his Italian, the store owner explained to me how to get to San Marcos. Although we still got lost, we did happen across a cheap (Venice-cheap) pizzeria with rude waiters. But it was funny; for some reason, the waiter started out by talking to us in French. I don't know why... We were speaking a mix of Spanish and English, but we definitely weren't speaking French.

   When we got to San Marcos, there were hundreds of people and almost as many pigeons. I understand why it's called one of the busiest plazas in all of Europe. At first, I wasn't going to hold a pigeon, but after seeing how easy it was to get one, I tried it. I might have deceived a few pigeons into thinking I had food, but at least I wasn't grabbing or squeezing them like a few guys behind us were.

   It was so hard to know what language to speak! We're so used to speaking Spanish with other people. But this wasn't Spain anymore; it was Italy. And even though most store owners did speak Spanish, they also spoke English. Half the time, we would stand there like an idiot, stumbling over ourselves as we figured out what language to speak in. I generally stuck to Spanish. It seems like people sometimes respond better if they think you're from Europe. Even when a group of Italian guys in the plaza asked us in English to take their picture, I spoke to them in Spanish. If nothing else, it's more fun than English.

   I really loved Italian! The whole trip, I was constantly trying to read signs, listening for familiarities in Italian and trying to pick up words or phrases. It's quite similar to Spanish. I could read signs and menus pretty well. One freeway sing admonished drivers to slow down because of fog, and it was almost exactly the same as Spanish. I couldn't understand very well (I still can't understand Spanish completely!), but I could understand how much things cost and other small comments and phrases.  I am absolutely determined: as soon as I know Spanish, I'm setting myself to learning Italian. 

   What's that? Fotos, you say? Well, here you are! Oh, and by the way, I generally upload pictures to my blog before anything else. Look at that! You guys take precedence over Facebook even!

Don't let my shoe wear fool you. It was freezing cold. I was the only person I saw the whole time we
were in Italy with sandals on. Lots of people raised their eyebrows at me. But with limited packing space...

A dragon holding a bunch of umbrellas! Coolest street lamp EVER.

It was a cute purse. But also the stall owner didn't seem enthusiastic about
our picture taking.

Gondola! It makes me think of Phantom of the Opera,
despite the fact that that story was set in France.

Grand Canal

Painting on the cathedral in San Marcos

A sweet British lady took this foto for us. When she gave me back
my camera, she said it was nice to hear American accents.

Parchment store!

I said I wouldn't do it, but I couldn't resist. I'm just glad nothing
happened to my sleeve!

Grand Canal at night time.

Venice, Venicia, Venizia... Whatever language you use, it's an amazing city!